BREAKING NEWS: IMG PULLS THE PLUG

An unusual post for me, I am more of an archivist than a news broadcaster, however, before I can finish even entering the story of CANADIAN FASHION ORGANISATIONS and CANADIAN FASHION SHOWS that I have mentioned in previous posts, and that are being listed in the sidebar as fast as I can do it, there is another chapter closing.

IMG 1

Toronto Fashion Week is no more.

Organizers announced Thursday that they’re pulling the plug on the semi-annual event, citing a lack of local support.

IMG Canada had operated Toronto Fashion Week in collaboration with IMG Fashion since 2012, after taking over from the Fashion Design Council of Canada, a non-profit organization that had owned and produced the event for 13 years.

“We really felt that our Canadian fashion footprint was not generating the local commercial funding that we really required in order for us to continue producing the event to the highest standard that, really, the industry deserves and the designers in Toronto deserve,” said Catherine Bennett, senior vice-president and managing director of IMG Fashion Events & Properties, in an interview with The Canadian Press.

“We’re sad to be moving on, but think it’s the right decision and the right time to make it.”

Bennett said IMG will no longer be involved with the Mercedes-Benz Start Up program for emerging designers, which had a grand-prize package that included a $30,000 bursary and a fully produced runway show in Toronto.

Losing Toronto Fashion Week will impact up-and-coming and newly established designers still trying to carve out their brands, said Susan Langdon, executive of the Toronto Fashion Incubator.

“Showing at Toronto Fashion Week gave them a stamp of credibility and it thrusted them into the media spotlight,” said Langdon, whose non-profit business centre has fostered numerous designers and style entrepreneurs.

“You have …. media from across the country and internationally attend this world-class event, and you have major retail buyers attend.

“If you’re just starting out, would you get that same kind of calibre of audience coming out to your show? Probably not. But because they’re there watching shows back-to-back will they put a little time aside to catch your show? Chances would have been pretty good.”

Toronto Fashion Week was part of a sizable roster of international fashion weeks owned or commercially represented by IMG, including those staged in New York, London, Berlin, Sydney and Tokyo.

Fashion week events are also held in Vancouver, Edmonton and Halifax. But the absence of Canada’s biggest style showcase in Toronto leaves a sizable void on the style calendar, when some of the leading emerging and established labels would unveil collections to buyers, media and consumers.

The end of Toronto’s marquee showcase comes three years after Montreal had its semi-annual event retooled. In 2013, organizers announced plans to merge the winter edition of Montreal Fashion Week with the city’s summer Fashion and Design Festival.

The Toronto event had undergone a mini-makeover earlier this year following the end of a six-season deal with World MasterCard as the title sponsor. It was rebranded with a new website and social media handles prior to the unveiling of fall-winter collections in March.

At the time, organizers said that while they hoped to find additional sponsor support, they didn’t foresee any impact on staging the Toronto event.

Ultimately, the shortfall proved too much to overcome.

“I think in the market in Toronto we just weren’t seeing the local support for the industry that we do see in some other markets,” said Bennett.

She hopes local designers will look to participate in other IMG programs such as DHL Exported. It offers fully produced runway shows for two consecutive seasons, as well as covering the logistics costs of producing the collection and shipping the finished garments to the runway.

Bennett also expressed hope that another group will stage a fashion showcase in Toronto — a sentiment echoed by Canadian fashion editors.

Bernadette Morra, editor-in-chief of Fashion Magazine, said there have already been several incarnations of fashion events in Toronto, including the Festival of Canadian Fashion, and showcases of ready-to-wear collections in hotel ballrooms.

“The fact that IMG — this multinational which was putting a lot of muscle into this — wound up in this situation I think it’s too bad, but I don’t think it means we can’t have a fashion week. We just can’t have a fashion week that IMG envisioned. There’s definitely an appetite from consumers and the industry to have some kind of event.”

Noreen Flanagan, editor-in-chief of Elle Canada, said she’s surprised by the end of Toronto Fashion Week, but added the move isn’t entirely unexpected given the changes being seen in how fashion is promoted and sold.

“Certainly, the Internet and social media have completely disrupted how we approach the business of fashion,” she said.

“Women and men still love fashion and they want to support designers…. But the thing is now they see the clothes and they want to buy it now. So I think the challenge will be — especially for smaller designers — to be able to produce that instant gratification that I think consumers are looking for.”

Follow @lauren_larose on Twitter.

http://www.brandonsun.com/business/breaking-news/img-pulls-plug-on-toronto-fashion-week-385872361.html?thx=y

Posted in CANADIAN DESIGNERS, CANADIAN FASHION, CANADIAN FASHION DESIGNERS, CANADIAN FASHION ORGANISATIONS, CANADIAN FASHION SUPPORT SYSTEM, FASHION DESIGNERS ASSOCIATION OF CANADA, JAMES FOWLER | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

TBT: HOMEMAKERS MAY 1981

As I mentioned previously, thanks to Maria Hoyt, I can now begin to identify models as well as designers and media. Amazing. Today TBT issue of Homemakers is a perfect issue, just looking at that wonderful water, while we enjoy the heat of summer in the city…Fashion from CANADIAN DESIGNERS: Jean Claude Poitras, Judi Fried, Micheline Boucher and Anita Pineault, CANADIAN MANUFACTURERS: Beverini, Sea Queen, Brodkin Industries and Cambridge Shoe Company,all modelled by CANADIAN FASHION MODELS: Maria Hoyt and Lorraine Pineau!

HOMEMAKERS 1981 maria hoyt PG0

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Posted in CANADIAN DESIGNERS, CANADIAN FASHION, CANADIAN FASHION DESIGNERS, CANADIAN FASHION MAGAZINES, CANADIAN FASHION MODELS, CANADIAN MANUFACTURER, JAMES FOWLER, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

MADE IN CANADA

‘Made in Canada’ or bust: Standing on guard for Canadian men’s wear
JEREMY FREED
The Globe and Mail
Published Thursday, Jun. 30, 2016 4:04PM EDT
Last updated Thursday, Jun. 30, 2016 4:04PM EDT

Six days a week Glen Viberg works the line at his Victoria factory, stitching leather, trimming soles and inspecting each pair of boots bearing his family’s name before they’re boxed and shipped. When Glen’s father, Ed, started making logging boots here in 1931 there was a thriving garment industry in Canada, with factories across the country cranking out everything from parkas to underwear. As anyone who has read the tag on a T-shirt or a pair of sneakers in the last few decades can attest, this is no longer the case. Now, thanks to free trade, cheap overseas labour and an ultra-competitive fashion market, made-in-Canada men’s wear is becoming a rarity. For Viberg and a handful of others, however, the Canadian men’s-wear industry may be a shadow of its former self, but it’s nowhere near dead.

“There are only two ways to do it,” says Brett Viberg, Glen’s son, who took over as CEO of Viberg Boots in 2008 and was faced with the challenge of boosting stagnant sales. “Either you do mass production and try to price compete with offshore,” he says. “Or you revamp your factory into a higher-end product.” Brett chose the latter route steering the company away from selling boots to lumberjacks and welders and reshaping Viberg as a high-end fashion brand. It would have been more profitable to move operations overseas, but aside from the fact that it would have put his dad out of a job, Brett Viberg’s pride in the family business prevailed. “If you’re going to try and make something that has your name on it there’s no way you’re going to put it into somebody else’s hands,” he says. “It’s a choice from the get-go.”

Viberg isn’t the only one who sees past the obstacles of producing Canadian-made men’s wear. When Meg Sinclair co-launched the brand Muttonhead in 2011, she had to fight against the prevailing wisdom that producing clothes in Canada didn’t make sense. “A lot of people said that it wasn’t really possible,”she says from Muttonhead’s Toronto studio, “So we wanted to prove them wrong.” Five years later, Muttonhead’s line of hipster-friendly sweats, outerwear and accessories has gained a small but enthusiastic following. All of Muttonhead’s apparel is made in Toronto and Vancouver, from domestic-produced textiles whenever possible. For Sinclair, a Ryerson University fashion graduate, supporting the Canadian garment industry was as important as making sure her clothes were being made exactly as she envisioned. “People who are making things overseas, they’re talking through middlemen, so there’s no real guarantee that the product you sent for production is going to come back what you wanted,” she says. “It’s a 20-minute drive for me to go and make sure things are being done to our specifications.”

For all of their idealism and commitment to quality, Canadian makers nonetheless find themselves in a difficult position: Customers love the idea of a shirt or a pair of boots made in their hometown, but they’re often unwilling to pay a premium for it. As a result, designers who produce their clothes here do so with the understanding that it doesn’t make a whole lot of business sense. “If a brand’s guiding principle is profit, domestic production is not a path that will deliver the highest returns,” says Alan Yiu, who studied apparel manufacturing management in Los Angeles before founding performance-outerwear brand Westcomb. The minimum daily wage in British Columbia, where all of Westcomb’s jackets and parkas are cut and sewn, is about $84. Compare that to China, where it’s $27.50 (U.S.) or Vietnam’s $6.70 (U.S.) and it’s not hard to understand why Yiu’s competitors choose to manufacture overseas. “Our retail prices aren’t more than double our competitors’,” he says. “As a result our profit is considerably less.”

Despite this, Yiu and a small cadre of like-minded entrepreneurs persist, keeping a close eye on quality and stoking the embers of Canada’s once-mighty garment business. While it’s unlikely Canadian men’s wear will ever exist on the same scale it once did, there is plenty of evidence that it will endure. Muttonhead will open a second retail store in Toronto this summer and has been featured in magazines like GQ and Nylon. After three years of steady growth, this year Westcomb is staking its future on a shift to a direct-to-consumer model, selling exclusively online.

When Brett Viberg took over his dad’s factory they were producing 6,500 pairs of boots. This year they’ll ship upwards of 9,000, produced from a new, larger facility and sold alongside top luxury brands at boutiques around the world. The brand is growing, but Viberg, like his compatriots, isn’t particularly motivated by growth. “Ultimately the payout is long term,” he says. “My dad says the same thing. He wouldn’t care if there were only three people working here, it doesn’t matter. What’s in your control is making stuff. Whether it’s big or small, it doesn’t change the way you think.”

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/fashion-and-beauty/fashion/made-in-canada-or-bust-standing-on-guard-for-canadian-mens-wear/article30713412/

Posted in CANADIAN DESIGNERS, CANADIAN FASHION, JAMES FOWLER, MADE IN CANADA | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

CANADIAN FASHION ORGANISATIONS

Introducing the new archival section “CANADIAN FASHION ORGANISATIONS”
.
There have been many organisations developed to promote CANADIAN FASHION DESIGNERS.
I have posted information from several of these (catalogues and clippings etc.) in the past.
Putting some sort of order (archivists like myself thrive on order, and the minutiae, the who, what, where, when, why) to this has been tricky.
HUGE THANKS to NORMA MENEGUZZI SPALL, for sharing her information, anecdotes, and personal reflections.
Norma’s list is the backbone and catalyst to this new section.

If anyone else has more info, and I know you do, please (and yes I know I am whining, but I know there is so much amazing stuff to add), let me know…

mid 1970’s
FASHION DESIGNERS ASSOCIATION OF CANADA / (FDAC)
Represented 24 of Canada’s top designers including names such as LEO CHEVALIER, MICHEL ROBICHAUD, ROBERT CHERNIN, JOHN WARDEN, CHRISTOPHER RYAN, GABRIEL LEVY, MARILYN BROOKS, WAYNE CLARK, LINDA LUNDSTROM, etc.

FASHION CANADA,
A department of the Ministry of Industry, Trade and Tourism, who provided partial funding
LISA TAYLOR headed up FASHION CANADA and MARY STEPHENSON was the Executive Director of the FDAC
For a time, the FDAC was based in Montreal which is where Mary lived. And then in Toronto when Mary moved to Toronto

FDAC TREND SHOWS
Held two times a year – Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter.
The shows were held in hotel ballrooms and featured capsule Collections from the designers.
The Trend Shows were ‘the’ fashion event to attend. The Shows were shown in Toronto and Montreal.
LEO CHEVALIER was the President of the FDAC.ROBERT CHERNIN later took on the role.

In 1974, I (NORMA) was working for a public relations company called Infoplan. Our client, Borateem Plus, began to work with some of the designers such as PAT MCDONAGH and MARILYN BROOKS in doing education media junkets to promote these designer fashions and Borateem Plus. In 1975, the client wanted a consumer-oriented show to be developed and my role was to find women’s focused charitable groups in major cities who would be interested in undertaking local ticket sales and the sourcing of venues. All proceeds would benefit their cause. It was quite an undertaking but at the time these charities were excited to take on the task. We then worked with FDAC in taking their Spring/Summer Collection to major cities across Canada. The show was called CANADIAN DESIGNER SHOWCASE and we initially went to 10 cities over three weeks. By the time I left Infoplan in 1979, we were going to 30 cities over 6 weeks. It was a two-hour show that became co-sponsored by Air Canada. We travelled as a group of eleven including MARY STEPHENSON. We got tremendous publicity for Canadian fashion and CANADIAN DESIGNER SHOWCASE was instrumental in raising awareness for Canadian designers outside of Montreal, Vancouver and Toronto.

The last CANDIAN DESIGNER SHOWCASE was around 1979/1980 and the FDAC, I believe, also disbanded at around that time

1980s
TORONTO ONTARIO DESIGNERS (TOD).
Toronto designers MARILYN BROOKS, PAT MCDONAGH, WAYNE CLARK and LINDA LUNDSTROM were instrumental in its start-up.
These designers wanted to make sure that there a formal designer group existed to help promote their Collections

1985
FESTIVAL OF CANADIAN FASHION
The FESTIVAL was STEVEN LEVY’S (ONE OF A KIND SHOWS) brainchild and it took the City by storm opening the event to both trade and consumer audiences
For several years the fashion show was the one to be in and to see.
FESTIVAL OF CANADIAN FASHION was later sold to the City of Toronto

Montreal designers were also banding together and securing provincial funding for their own fashion events. For many years, there was a competition between Montreal and Toronto as to which city was Canada’s fashion capitol.

1984
FASHION INDUSTRY LIASON COMMITTEE
FILC was a division of Toronto’s Economic Development Office.

1986
THE TORONTO FASHION INCUBATOR (TFI)
Formed by the FASHION INDUSTRY LIASON COMMITTEE.

1990
TORONTO FASHION WEEK
The City of Toronto, through FILC, started this week to support the Toronto fashion community and Toronto fashion retailers.

early 1990’s
DESIGNERS ONTARIO
Started in the by BRIAN BAILEY and CAROL OUTRAM with support from the City of Toronto and the government of Ontario.
DESIGNERS ONTARIO showed Ready-to-Wear Collection Shows twice a year.
Designers from Toronto and Montreal participated.
Each designer paid to participate in the shows.
The shows took place in hotel ballrooms throughout the city.

1992
MATINEE FASHION FOUNDATION(MFF)
Matinée (Imperial Tobacco cigarette brand) formed the MATINEE FASHION FOUNDATION(MFF).
The mandate of the MFF was to support Canadian fashion designers by providing grants to help grow their businesses.
In return, the designers receiving grants agreed to promote MFF through hang tags as well as participate in an annual MFF show which toured to three or four major cities in Canada.
Matinee also heavily advertised their grantees in consumer magazines, transit shelter advertising, etc.
The MFF was instrumental in helping major designers such as WAYNE CLARK, PAT MCDONAGH, FRANCO MIRABELLI, BRIAN BAILEY, DAVID DIXON, etc. to grow their businesses.
The MFF would also sponsor breakfasts or the media room at the DESIGNERS ONTARIO READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTIONS shows.

The recession of the early 1990s was brutal and affected the apparel industry considerably. By 1995/1996, Designers Ontario was barely surviving. Government funding for the shows was dwindling as was support/participation from designers. It was simply becoming too expensive for the designers to bear the costs of showing their Collections. At the end of 1996, FRANCO MIRABELLI was named President of DESIGNERS ONTARIO. He and BRIAN BAILEY met to discuss how to keep DESIGNERS ONTARIO afloat and to save the Ready-to-Wear Collections. They went to Matinée and proposed that they become the title sponsor of the Ready-to-Wear collections. Matinee was reluctant to become the sponsor as they already had their own shows to promote the designers they were supporting. Brian and Franco were very persuasive

March 25th 1997
THE MATINEE FASHION READY-TO-WEAR
Participating designers came from Vancouver, Toronto and Montreal.

On January 27 1997, I was hired as the Event Producer for the first ever MATINEE FASHION READY-TO-WEAR. I had six weeks to pull together a team of people to produce the show as the show was to take place over two days from March 25 to 26 1997. CRYSTAL SIEMENS, FRANCO MIRABELLI, MARILYN BROOKS, and BRIAN BAILEY were the key designers providing support behind the scenes. However, there was much too do including: finding a venue, finding other sponsors (Matinee’s support did not pay for the entire show), finding other designers (18 in total); design and printing of the program, lighting and staging, choreographer, music, etc. etc. It was madness for six weeks but the team pulled it off and on March 25th the MATINEE FASHION READY-TO-WEAR to a full house of media, fashion influencers and retailers at the Masonic Temple on Yonge Street. Everyone knew that Matinée was the white knight saving the day for the Collection shows and in the opening ceremonies, they were given a standing ovation.

In April 1997, I (Norma) was named the new Executive Director of DESIGNERS ONTARIO reporting to FRANCO MIRABELLI who was the President of the Board. One of the first things we did was to introduce non-designers to the Board of Designers Ontario. We brought in fashion influencers such as BERT DEVEAU, Visual Merchandiser at The Bay, RICHARD LOCKHART, Buyer at The Bay, DEBORAH FULSANG, Flare Magazine, JANE HARVEY, lawyer, Jane Harvey and Associates.

Designers on the Board included CRYSTAL SIEMENS, DAVID DIXON, ROSS MAYER, BRIAN BAILEY, MARILYN BROOKS, FRANCO MIRABELLI (PRESIDENT) and ROBIN KAY. Participation in the MFRTW was done by jury selection.
Other sponsors of the show included Mac Cosmetics, Schwartzkopf ProfessionaL. VISA Canada, The Eaton Centre, FASHION Magazine, Bell Mobility, Perrier, Phantom Hosiery, Town Shoes, etc.
In September 1997 MFRTW moved to The Docks where it continued to be held until March 1999. In addition to supporting the Ready-to-Wear, Matinee also ran a consumer advertising campaign to promote the Ready-to-Wear in Toronto.
This would have been the very first time, a sponsor backed the Ready-to-Wear in such a way.
The last show always belonged to the Matinee Fashion Foundation.
Consumer tickets were sold and the show was followed by an ‘after-party’.

My last show was March 1999 and I left DESIGNERS ONTARIO in June 1999. Shortly afterwards, I was named to the Board of the MATINEE FASHION FOUNDATION. Pending government regulations banning tobacco company advertising and sponsorship of events was looming. Matinee’s last sponsorship of the Ready-to-Wear Collections was September 1999. The Matinee Fashion Foundation shut down around 2001/2002. In September 1999, the last MFRTW took place under the tents on a Cumberland Avenue parking lot. Torrential rain with gale force winds almost toppled the tents but the show went on with a few behind-the-scene calamities due to the storm! Media was becoming disenchanted with a cigarette company sponsoring the shows and resultant press was often not complimentary.

2000
DESIGNERS ONTARIO went back to the lean years and struggled to figure out how to continue the momentum created by Matinee’s support of the designer Collections
MARILYN BROOKS took over as President of the Board and worked tirelessly to ensure that some semblance of show was produced for March 2000.
With ROBIN KAY’S support, they managed to secure support from the Windsor Arms Hotel and a smaller presentation of a few designers took place in March 2000

2002
FASHION DESIGN COUNCIL OF CANADA
ROBIN KAY and MARILYN BROOKS were the founders of the FASHION DESIGN COUNCIL OF CANADA.
ROBIN KAY became the President of the FDCC
The Windsor Arms was the home for the shows.

January 2002
L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL PRESENTS TORONTO FASHION WEEK
L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL announced that they would become the title sponsor of TORONTO FASHION WEEK.
The first-ever L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL PRESENTS TORONTO FASHION WEEK took place at The Liberty Grand in March 2002.
L’Oreal remained the title sponsor of TORONTO FASHION WEEK until 2008.
During this time, ROBIN KAY worked tirelessly to bring in new sponsors and new designers.

Designers from Milan were featured over the years, causing some controversy. One of the sponsors brought in during this time was LG. A key to attracting more sponsorship was increasing consumer attendance. Tickets were sold to evening shows and parties. A buzz started to happen as the shows became a ‘fashion happening’ in the City attracting a cool, hip crowd. Efforts were put into attracting well-known society types and fashion influencers. JOE MIMRAN became Chair of the FDCC Board. Other board members introduced included Lynda Price and Lorne Gertner. Controversy began to develop around the FDCC and a petition was started to remove ROBIN KAY from her position of President of FDCC. Designers were unhappy that the FDCC was not acting as a membership-driven organization and not giving designers a say in the Shows. Shows moved from The Liberty Grand to another larger CNE venue. Media were being charged $100 to cover the shows.

December 2008,
LG TORONTO FASHION WEEK.
L’Oreal remained the beauty sponsor.
The shows moved from the CNE to a tent at Toronto’s Nathan Phillip’s Square and to later at David Pecaut Square, it’s current home.

Controversy continued to surround Robin Kay and the FDCC. The Board of Directors for the FDCC dropped from a group of 10 people to four – Robin Kay, Joe Mimran, Lorne Gertner and Lynda Price. Aside from showing in Toronto Fashion Week, designers were shut out of any decision-making at the FDCC. The FDCC stopped promoting industry membership. Promotion and advertising of consumer tickets increased. Bigger sponsors were added such as Mercedes Benz, Rowenta, etc.

2012
WORLD MASTERCARD TORONTO FASHION WEEK
In August 2012, the FDCC announced it had been sold to IMG, producers of FASHION WEEK in several cities including London, Berlin, Paris, etc.

Posted in CANADIAN DESIGNERS, CANADIAN FASHION, CANADIAN FASHION ORGANISATIONS, CANADIAN FASHION PEOPLE, CANADIAN FASHION SUPPORT SYSTEM, JAMES FOWLER | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

CANADIAN FASHION MODELS: MARIA HOYT

A “SPECIAL THANKS” to BEBA HOJT / MARIA HOYT, for introducing me to the world of the CANADIAN FASHION MODEL in the 1970’s and 80’s. It is amazing for me to get to share first hand with someone who was there. The following images are certainly not all, but a great cross section.

INTERNATIONAL TOP MODELS MARIA HOYT 1972

INTERNATIONAL TOP MODELS
MARIA HOYT
1972

INTERNATIONAL TOP MODELS MARIA HOYT 1972

INTERNATIONAL TOP MODELS
MARIA HOYT
1972

THE EXPOSITOR MARIA HOYT 1972

THE EXPOSITOR
MARIA HOYT
1972

INTERNATIONAL TOP MODELS MARIA HOYT 1973

INTERNATIONAL TOP MODELS
MARIA HOYT
1973

INTERNATIONAL TOP MODELS MARIA HOYT 1973

INTERNATIONAL TOP MODELS
MARIA HOYT
1973

WEEKEND MAGAZINE MARIA HOYT  VIJU CRANE JUNE 1973

WEEKEND MAGAZINE MARIA HOYT
VIJU CRANE
JUNE 1973

WEEKEND MAGAZINE MARIA HOYT  VIJU CRANE JUNE 1973

WEEKEND MAGAZINE MARIA HOYT
VIJU CRANE
JUNE 1973

WEEKEND MAGAZINE MARIA HOYT  VIJU CRANE JUNE 1973

WEEKEND MAGAZINE MARIA HOYT
VIJU CRANE
JUNE 1973

EATONS L-R UNKNOWN, JUDY HOLMES, UNKNOWN, MARIA HOYT 1975

EATONS
L-R UNKNOWN, JUDY HOLMES, UNKNOWN, MARIA HOYT
1975

SILHOUETTE DESIRE MARIA HOYT ILLUSTRATION BY TOM BJARNASON 1975

SILHOUETTE DESIRE
MARIA HOYT
ILLUSTRATION BY TOM BJARNASON
1975

CARON INTERNATIONAL R-L CAROL LAWRENCE, MARIA HOYT 1979

CARON INTERNATIONAL
R-L CAROL LAWRENCE, MARIA HOYT 1979

CARON INTERNATIONAL L-R CAROL LAWRENCE, MARIA HOYT  1979

CARON INTERNATIONAL L-R CAROL LAWRENCE, MARIA HOYT
1979

TORONTO LIFE MARIA HOYT JULY 1980

TORONTO LIFE
MARIA HOYT
JULY 1980

TORONTO LIFE MARIA HOYT FEBRUARY 1980

TORONTO LIFE
MARIA HOYT
FEBRUARY 1980

HOMEMAKERS MAGAZINE MARIA HOYT JUNE 1980

HOMEMAKERS MAGAZINE
MARIA HOYT
JUNE 1980

MADAME AN FOYE  MARIA HOYT JUNE 1980

MADAME AN FOYE
MARIA HOYT
JUNE 1980

MADAM AN FOYER MARIA HOYT MAY 1981

MADAM AN FOYER
MARIA HOYT
MAY 1981

SHERRIDA MARIA HOYT 1981

SHERRIDA
MARIA HOYT
1981

SHERRIDA MARIA HOYT 1981

SHERRIDA
MARIA HOYT
1981

SHERRIDA MARIA HOYT 1981

SHERRIDA
MARIA HOYT
1981

HOMEMAKERS MARIA HOYT JUNE 1981

HOMEMAKERS
MARIA HOYT
JUNE 1981

SHERRIDA MARIA HOYT 1982

SHERRIDA
MARIA HOYT
1982

SHERRIDA MARIA HOYT 1982

SHERRIDA
MARIA HOYT
1982

SHERRIDA MARIA HOYT 1983

SHERRIDA
MARIA HOYT
1983

SHERRIDA MARIA HOYT 1983

SHERRIDA
MARIA HOYT
1983

VERVE MARIA HOYT SEPT OCT 1985

VERVE
MARIA HOYT
SEPT OCT 1985

HOMEMAKERS MAGAZINE MARIA HOYT JUNE 1985

HOMEMAKERS MAGAZINE
MARIA HOYT
JUNE 1985

This is the sort of thing that can only pop up in an in person meet up. An after hours private shoot with CANDIAN FASHION DESIGNER/ GERALD FRANKLIN, CANADIAN FASHION MODEL/ MARIA HOYT and CANADIAN FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER/ ANDRE GAGNE ca1981 just because they wanted to.

GERALD FRANKLIN maria hoyt andre gagne (2)

GERALD FRANKLIN maria hoyt andre gagne (3)

GERALD FRANKLIN maria hoyt andre gagne (4)

GERALD FRANKLIN maria hoyt andre gagne (5)

GERALD FRANKLIN maria hoyt andre gagne

HURRAY for the comments on CANADIAN FASHION, and a superb list of the some of the top CANADIAN FASHION DESIGNERS and CANADIAN FASHION RETAILERS.

TORONTO STAR STASIA EVASUK ca 1980

TORONTO STAR
STASIA EVASUK
ca 1980

Posted in CANADIAN FASHION MODELS, CANADIAN FASHION PEOPLE, JAMES FOWLER | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

CLOTHINGCANADAFASHION: PEOPLE & WEBSITE UPDATES!

People, people meeting people (can you hear Barbra Streisand), can be an amazing thing. Meetings with people have allowed me to glean first hand information, and have been the catalyst to some new additions here on the website.

I started clipping when I was a fashion student in the late 1970’s. I began clipping more ardently and visiting the Toronto Reference Library to visit their CANADIAN FASHION DESIGNER files (collected by the late ALAN SUDDON /Fine Arts Librarian at the Toronto Reference Library and costume collector extrodinaire) in the mid 1990’s (often accompanied by my friend JUDY THEORET, librarian and fellow fact finder). I was creating my own comprehensive file, as their were only two books that covered CANADIAN FASHION DESIGNERS at the time (and still are) and as an industry player and fashion school instructor I knew there was a need for another, still is, and I was/am going to put it together. In the meantime this website was created as a holder for all I was gathering and a way of getting the info out there.

The website began with the archive of CANADIAN FASHION DESIGNERS (on the right). The list of designers, and the content in their individual files continues to grow, although much of it is has been slipped in quietly and you may not have noticed any change. Going forward I will post the additions on the blog, as I fill in the files, so that you are aware!

Beyond the designers names lies an array of alternately talented people who brought/bring these designers and their work alive. Their names are not so commonly known but I have always thought that they too deserve recognition in telling the story of CANADIAN FASHION HISTORY. I have been collecting information on many of these people and organisations all along, however I needed some sort of catalyst to bring them forward. People…

SHELLEY WICKABROD (with her late husband BERNARD MCGEE, designers of CLOTHESLINES) and I have been friends for many years, we follow each other on facebook, where for the past many months a woman by the name of BEBA HOJT has been posting images and info on CANADIAN FASHION to Shelley’s timeline. Shelley put two and two together and crossed our paths. It turns out Beba Hojt /MARIA HOYT, was a major model in the 1970’s and 80’s. We met up last week. Beba arrived with many portfolios and bags of photos and ephemera and many amazing tales of the period. For someone like me who has spent many, many hours in libraries scouring for info, this was more than a delight as it was live! Christmas, buried treasure, and a pot of gold all in one, and a catalyst to the new section CANADIAN FASHION MODELS (wearing Canadian Fashion). I will blog these before listing on the right also! People…

I previously mentioned THE CANADIAN FASHION SUPPORT SYSTEM, in a blog post on Feb 2, 2016 and at that time took a moment to say “THANK YOU” to NORMA MENEGUZZI SPALL, who I had had a delightful catch up lunch with. In later emails Norma provided me with much info, having worked with many of these organisations herself, beginning in the mid 1970’s with the CFDA. She unravelled a spider’s web of names and dates and shared some very fondly remembered anecdotes. I rather dropped the ball right after that post. I have continued to collect, but have posted or filed very little, being busy elsewhere, (see previous post CLOTHINGCANADAFASHION: UPDATE/KEN AND ME/18.06.2016 for more on that). I am now picking up the ball and excited to carry on where I left off, bringing in another new section, CANADIAN FASHION SUPPORT, which I will also blog and file.

People…

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CLOTHINGCANADAFASHION: UPDATE / KEN AND ME

It is some time since I posted, I have been working on another project.

BARBIE’S BOYFRIEND KEN, Vintage KEN from 1961 – 1967, collected and curated by me (JAMES FOWLER) over the last 18 years, is now on display at the FASHION HISTORY MUSEUM in Cambridge, Ontario. It’s a great close-up look at Vintage KEN, and at the periods menswear and other ephemera, and is a piece of my own autobiography.

james invite

Oh, and there is a book (I know, personal plug) “KEN AND ME” which you can order @jamesbf8@hotmail.com!

KEN AND ME COVER WITH FRAME

If you have any enquires on this don’t hesitate to e mail me, I am always happy to talk “KEN”.

My show is teamed with Belgian/Canadian Photographer WALTER SEGERS’ show, “WHAT I DID ON MY SUMMER VACATION” a series of shots representing a chunk of WALLY’S autobiography, using Ken dolls from my collection.

Wally invite

For more on WALLY go to http://waltersegers.com

And, to top it off “TYING THE KNOT 200 YEARS OF WEDDING ATTIRE” a selection from the museums collection.

FHM

In case you were not aware of the FASHION HISTORY MUSEUM it is the lovechild of JONATHON WALFORD and KENN NORMAN, the FHM’s Co founders, and Curator and Chair, respectively.

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For more on the FHM go to http://fashionhistorymuseum.com/index-1.html

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CANADIAN DESIGNERS: CLAIRE HADDAD

CLAIRE HADDAD, C.M.
July 17, 1924 – May 17, 2016

May she rest in peace, perfect peace…
Condolences to her loved ones.
JF

CLAIRE HADDAD

We are shocked and saddened by the sudden passing of Claire Margaret Haddad (née Bardwell) peacefully in her sleep. The second of five Bardwell sisters and predeceased by the older Vivian Tanber of Toledo (the late George Sr.), she was determined not to outlive her younger sisters. The third sister, Gladys Darah (the late Nick), also of Toledo passed away the same day. Born in Toronto and known throughout the fashion world for designing elegant, high fashion sleep and loungewear in the 1960s-80s (clairehaddad.ca), Claire was the first Canadian designer to be recognized by Women’s Wear Daily and Vogue Magazine and won numerous fashion awards. She created special designs for celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor, Carol Burnett and Mary Tyler Moore. She was also a featured subject in publications Women of Canada, Pricetag and Northern Lights – Outstanding Canadian Women. Claire received the Order of Canada in 1979 for her contribution to Canadian fashion. Claire is predeceased by the love of her life, husband and business partner Albert, of almost 70 years. She will be deeply missed by her other two sisters Jo Abraham Scott (Bill) of Toronto and Rose Marie Chamandy-Cook (the late Bill) of Montreal, as well as her immediate family: Lynn (Duncan) McGregor, Andrea (Nicolas) Zabaneh; her adored grandchildren Reid, Lisa, Scott McGregor and Hala, Christopher Zabaneh; very special great-grandson Ian McGregor; and five godchildren. The family will receive friends at the HUMPHREY FUNERAL HOME A.W. MILES – NEWBIGGING CHAPEL, 1403 Bayview Avenue (south of Davisville Avenue) from 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. and 6:00 to 9:00 p.m. on Friday, May 20th. A funeral service will take place in the chapel on Saturday, May 21st at 12:30 p.m. In lieu of flowers, donations in memory of Claire would be greatly appreciated to the Albert & Claire Haddad Endowment Fund, School of Fashion Studies Seneca College or the Veteran’s Grant a Wish Fund of Sunnybrook Hospital or to a charity of your choice. Condolences and memories may be forwarded through www.humphreymiles.com.

http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/thestar/obituary.aspx?n=claire-haddad&pid=180036440&fhid=9911

CLICK ON THE LEFT FOR CLOTHING CANADA FASHION ARCHIVES OF CLAIRE HADDAD
GO TO www.clairehaddad.ca FOR THE FAMILIES ARCHIVE OF CLAIRE HADDAD

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CANADIAN OLYMPIC TEAM UNIFORMS RIO 2016

Welcome to Rio 2016. The Canadian Athletes uniforms are ready. Dean and Dan Caten / DSquared, in conjunction with The Hudson’s Bay Company, are the CANADIAN DESIGNERS. The cut; “Athleisure”, on trend and very logical, as these really are dressed up athletes. The graphics; nothing shows up cleaner-on-camera than red, white and black. And yes the maple leaf, especially when its a large, graphic and camera friendly one! Cliché, to be sure, that is what it’s about; in a field of hundreds of athletes you want something you can recognise instantly, then click and instagram. No fuss, no muss, its Canadian, its clean and classic. BRAVO Dean and Dan, and ALL THE BEST to our Athletes.

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On Tuesday in Toronto, Hudson’s Bay unveiled the uniforms Canadian athletes will be sporting at the upcoming Rio 2016 Summer Olympic and Paralympic Games.

Designed by Dan and Dean Caten, the Canadian duo behind Dsquared2, the Olympic uniform will be worn by 315 athletes during the opening and closing ceremonies of the Games, and is described as “an innovative mash-up of two diverse worlds: tailoring and sport.”

The 2016 “Team Canada Collection” features stylish and athletic shapes that are crafted around Canada’s most distinct motif, the maple leaf. Recalling the “striking simplicity of early Canadian Olympic uniforms,” the outfit’s main attraction is a tailored blazer designed with a windbreaker material.

On their website, Dsquared2, who also designed the uniforms for the 2010 Winter Olympic in Vancouver, writes that the jacket, “features a sartorial finish with flap pockets, gum covered snap buttons, ribbed cuffs and a bonded zip pocket on the chest.”

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Sprinter Khamica Bingham and Field Hockey Player Matthew Sarmento

The full Rio 2016 Olympic kit includes leisurewear, jackets, pants and accessories.

“The collection captures the strength of Canada, unifying performance, patriotism and style to create a look that is iconic, modern, and most of all, passionately Canadian,” Team Canada noted in a press release after the Facebook Live reveal hosted by Jessi Cruickshank and Alexandre Despatie.

TORONTO, ONTARIO - APRIL 12:  Korey Jarvis attends the Hudson's Bay Company Launch of the Team Canada Collection For Rio 2016 at the Art Gallery of Ontario on April 12, 2016 in Toronto, Canada.  (Photo by GP Images/WireImage)

TORONTO, ONTARIO – APRIL 12: Korey Jarvis attends the Hudson’s Bay Company Launch of the Team Canada Collection For Rio 2016 at the Art Gallery of Ontario on April 12, 2016 in Toronto, Canada. (Photo by GP Images/WireImage)

The official Team Canada replica wear, priced from $19.99 to $150 for men’s/women’s clothing and outwear, will be available at all Hudson’s Bay locations across Canada and online beginning May 4th.

The countdown to Rio is officially on!

To see more photos from the #TeamCanada Rio 2016 uniform unveiling, check out the slideshow @
http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/2016/04/13/canadian-olympic-uniforms_n_9681422.html#slide=start

http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/2016/04/13/canadian-olympic-uniforms_n_9681422.html

Posted in CANADIAN DESIGNERS, CANADIAN UNIFORMS, JAMES FOWLER | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

CANADIAN FASHION ICON: JUSTIN TRUDEAU

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Justin Trudeau has come a long way from being just a snowboarding John Mayer doppelgänger. Following in the political footsteps of his father, the younger Trudeau and IRL Disney prince was elected as Canada’s prime minister last year and, since taking office, has achieved a level of Internet-boyfriend status usually reserved for the Benedict Cumberbatches of the world (Hey Girl memes included). Maybe you heard about Trudeau’s compassionate appeal on the Syrian refugee crisis? Or you’ve seen his badass-but-not-obnoxious tattoo? The guy can explain quantum computing, for God’s sake.

The reason we’ve hopped on the Trudeau train (that presumably runs on maple syrup) is that the politician dresses better than any other world leader. It’s what earned him a place on our Most Stylish Men Alive Right Now list. Even if we’re grading on an elected-leader curve—and we are—the prime minister makes an effort to look his best whether he’s in black tie at the White House or bringing his impressive sock game to a hometown talk show. And that’s why we thought Trudeau could handle his own GQ cover:

Unfortunately, you won’t find this “lost” cover on newsstands or polybagged in your mailbox—but not because we worried American audiences wouldn’t be able to handle eyes that dreamy. With Toronto hometown hero Drake and Ryan Reynolds, a.k.a. the pride of Vancouver, taking up so much prime printed real estate already, having a third Canuck cover would have ma-a-a-aybe been overkill. Kind of like when Trudeau and Obama joined forces for bro hugs and baby-kissing.

http://www.gq.com/story/justin-trudeau-gq-cover-most-stylish-men-alive

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By: Robin Levinson King Staff Reporter, Published on Wed Apr 20 2016

The editorial board of GQ magazine magazine named Prime Minister Justin Trudeau “the most stylish politician alive right now” and stuck him on the cover of their May issue.

He’s sexy, he’s suave and he’s prime minister — but is Justin Trudeau the most stylish politician in the world?

GQ seems to think so. The men’s magazine editorial board named Trudeau “the most stylish politician alive right now.”

“Justin Trudeau’s meteoric rise from political young gun to Internet superhero might have something to do with the Canadian’s Obama-like levels of chill,” the publication wrote.

To be fair, Trudeau doesn’t have much in the way of competition. U.S. President Barack Obama’s dad jeans, U.K. Prime Minister David Cameron’s polo shirts, and Russia’s Vladimir Putin’s penchant for going shirtless leave much to be desired sartorially.

But there is an undeniable je ne sais quoi about Trudeau’s sense of style, says Jeff Rustia, founder of Toronto Men’s Fashion Week.

“It all goes hand in hand. The watch, the socks, the gear, the cars, it’s all very consistent,” he said.

Rustia says Trudeau has become the ambassador for Canadian men’s fashion, embracing modern trends like slim-fitting suits, bold colours and athletic wear.

“Today, part of this whole movement of men’s fashion and men’s lifestyle is very groovy . . . it’s very fitting of his kind of fashion sense,” Rustia said.

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From his striped socks to his tan shoes, Trudeau has shown that he’s not afraid of stepping out of the navy-black-charcoal palette typical of politicos.

But it’s more than just what he wears, says Michael Nguyen, general manager of Garrison Bespoke, a Toronto-based custom tailor. It’s how he wears it.

“He knows how to wear the right colours for his complexion and for the setting,” Nguyen said, noting how Trudeau gravitates towards deep blues, which seem both modern and conservative at the same time.

Having grown up in the spotlight, Trudeau has an easy confidence that makes wearing a three-piece suit seem as comfortable as a jogging suit.

“You can’t buy (that) with money,” Nguyen said.

In that regard, Trudeau seems to be taking a cue from his father, Pierre.

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“He actually follows in the footsteps of his father very, very well,” Nguyen said.

Although Trudeau’s style of dress is a bit more understated than his father’s pinstripe suits, fur coats and boutonnières, Rustia says they are both icons of their time.

“Like father, like son, Justin Trudeau is on trend,” Rustia said.

Amongst the trends that Trudeau has been seen sporting, GQ seemed particularly impressed with his choice of watch, his tattoo and his wavy locks.

The IWC Regulateur watch, which retails for more than $12,000, is both sporty and formal, Rustia said.
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“It’s great because Trudeau wears it for both very dressy occasions and casual occasions,” he said. And while some might think a tattoo is more appropriate on a biker than a prime minister, Rustia thinks it’s “cool” because the Haida raven design has personal significance to Trudeau. His father became an honorary member of the Haida people in 1976.

“It’s meaningful,” he said.

Although Trudeau’s long waves have since been clipped, Rustia said he misses the good old days.

“I actually liked his hair when it was a little bit longer, but I know that it made him look younger and less formal,” he said.

Rustia has one point of contention with GQ’s assessment of Trudeau’s appeal: he’s much better looking than John Mayer, he said.

“He looks like one of those classic Disney princes. With Justin, it’s the whole package.”

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http://www.thestar.com/news/canada/2016/04/20/yes-justin-trudeau-has-earned-the-gq-title-of-most-stylish-politician.html

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