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By Tim Blanks
September 28, 2015 09:07

MILAN, Italy — “Bondi Bitches…” chanted one twin. “…In Bondage,” the other one chimed in. “They come to surf, they stay to party.” Their men’s presentation in June was about surfer dudes as nature’s free-spirited nomads — and the tattoo body stockings were carried over here — but the women who came down the Catens’ catwalk on Saturday looked like they could devour those boys alive, and swallow the bones. The show began with an ominous fragment of the Jaws theme. You didn’t have to look far to find a man-eater. Hair still wet, sheathed in second-skin neoprene, she stalked down the catwalk on lethal heels bound to her foot with surf leashes (same things that attach your board to your foot in the water).

That second skin became a theme. So did the binding, like the leather straps that gripped a jacket to one model’s torso. And the shoes? Well, there was some pretty tentative movement on the runway. It rather subtracted from the high-energy optimism that usually drives a DSquared2 show. True, it’s that time in the calendar when everyone’s moving a little slower, craving rest, but that notion is utterly antithetical to Catens-a-go-go.

And once the first downbeat thought kicked in, some others followed. Like, for example, the echoes of other designers in the clothes: Nicolas Ghesquière’s graphic, sculpted scuba collection for Balenciaga; Hervé Léger’s original bandage dresses; even the metal mesh and extravagant beading of vintage Versace. It felt like the Catens’ own personalities were slightly submerged. You only have to look back to DSquared2’s Autumn collection to see how hard that is to believe, but the feeling certainly gelled with the uncertain air of this presentation. Guess man-eating is exhausting work.

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Day four and the last one at Milan menswear spring summer 2016 fashion week, with Armani e D’Squared as the top highlights of Milan catwalk! Get ready for one more Milan Design Agenda analysis! Starting…


Surf’s up at Dsquared2 for next summer. Twin designers Dean and Dan Caten are taking fans of the brand on an endless summer hunt with a playful collection that ran on the crest of camp without ever looking gnarly or whipped out. The duo offered up some great wetsuit inspired outerwear, cool bleached out denim jackets and pants, and bold baller mesh tops bonded to sleeveless white tees.

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There was also a wide selection of vibrant board shorts, often worn audaciously with a pair of black lace crotch-snap ladies underwear around the waist, like a trophy taken from the conquest of the night before.

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Tattooed bodysuits sported underneath most of the outfits pulled attention on the catwalk. But the first brand that comes up with a wetsuit version of those tattooed suits will be raking in the cash. When the Dsquared2 surfer hit dry land, the brand sent him packing – trekking to the next location where the swells are braking with neon lace-up hiking boots, stuffed to the gills backpacks, and nylon anoraks.

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A sea and surf inspired collection was the perfect choice for the brand this season considering that the house just opened up a new store at the Bal Harbour Shops in Florida. There is no doubt that the twins are going to ride the smooth barrel of this show all the way to the bank.

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