Jean-Pierre Braganza ~ AW15
As always, Braganza titled his latest line of women swear with a single word and this season, EXCELSIORA was the name given to the collection inspired by the Metropolis era. Giving the JPB woman a combination of strength and elegance, she is simultaneously a modern day “film noir vixen and a war-time heroine”.
Braganza remains true to his signature sleek silhouettes. However, unlike last season where the Canada born designer favoured asymmetric hemlines, for Autumn/Winter ‘15 their is an distinct focus on symmetry – something which he has attributed to machine exteriors. Fighter jets in particular are referenced throughout the collection. Not only can they be found in the graphic printed sweaters but the figure flattering dresses with cowl necks or peplum folds expressed this same seductive symmetry.
The stand out garment from the show has got to be the wide-leg trousers made up of alternating size stripes in sheer and black. They really did encapsulate the precision engineering that Braganza was trying to instill upon us and the incredible movement they created down the runway had us mesmerised from the word go.
This isn’t the first time Braganza has explored machinery but, as the seasons progress, we can’t help but draw parallels between Braganza’s “terrifying beauty of fighter jets” and the Italian Futurist’s celebration of 20th century technology, in particular the violence of modern warfare. Let’s just call it ‘The Cult of the Machine’.